Ilhas flutuantes de Uros e Amantani

Começamos nosso encontro com os Peruanos.

Saímos de barco em direção  as ilhas flutuantes Uros. O Lago é uma plantação de Totoras. Destas plantas são feitas as bases das ilhas flutuantes, uma coisa inusitada para mim.

O guia escolheu umas delas, descemos e recebemos uma aula de como as casas são construídas, suas características, sua história, como vivem seus moradores, foi legal.

Porém  as ilhas são tão pequenas que me senti invadindo a casa das pessoas, além do que se percebe claramente o cunho turístico e comercial da visita. Se você tentar fotografa-los logo isso lhe será cobrado. tudo muito turístico e para finalizar elas cantam "bring back my bonnie to me". não preciso falar mais nada né! Mas vale a pena.

The Floating Islands of Lake Titicaca – Uros and Amantaní

This was our first real encounter with the Peruvian people.

We left Puno on a boat and headed towards the floating islands of Uros – 44 or so artificial islands made and re-made of totora reeds, which provide home, sustenance and transportation for their residents – what a unique place!!!

We landed on one of the islands and the guide told us about its history, showed us how the houses are built and their main features and, finally, explained all we wanted to know about the locals: how they make their living, what their lifestyle and customs are, and so on. It was a great lesson.

Yet, I soon realized that everything was planned to be just another tourist attraction and I couldn’t help but feel that I was entering other people’s homes without being invited – the islands are so tiny… Can you believe that you have to pay to have a picture taken with the locals?  And guess what – they say their goodbyes by singing “Bring Back My Bonnie to Me”.

Well, even so the tour was definitely worth it.

Início da navegação - eu e as totoras no Lago Titicaca

Beginning of our boat trip – Surrounded by totora reeds at Titicaca Lake

Abundancia de Totoras

Surrounded by an abundance of Totoras

Ilhas Uros

The floating islands of Uros

Após 3 horas de navegação, lenta...chegamos a ilha de Amantani, foi aí que começou a "VIAGEM".

Our next stop was another small island on Lake Titicaca – Amantaní – where, after a three-hour boat ride, our real journey into the mysteries of Peru began. 

3 horas de navegação dá para descansar bastante... 
3 hours of navigation is a lot of time to rest 

Ilha de Amantani - Pachamama ao fundo

Amantaní Island and Pachamana Peak in the background

                                          O porto de Amantani - Amantaní harbor

Ao chegar na ilha o guia distribui o grupo entre as casas dos habitantes locais. ficam no máximo 4 pessoas por casa. As residências são bastante simples, mas tem um "selo" que as qualifica para receber turistas. Como são mais casas que turistas, eles fazem um revezamento, de forma que todas as famílias possam ser beneficiadas com esta atividade.

Some of the families of Amantaní open their homes to tourists for overnight stays, so the tour guide divided us into groups of four and showed us where we would stay. The houses are quite simple, but all of them comply with a code of standards set by tourism companies to enable them to receive tourists. The locals are really organized and, since there are more families willing to provide accommodations than the number of tourists that can visit the island at any given day, they created a rotation system so all can benefit from this activity.  

Fazendo os próprios tijolos de adobe

Adobe bricks being manufactured

 Nossas acomodações - medindo o pé direito

Measuring the ceiling height of our accommodations

testando o colchão - chuveiro nem pensar
checking the mattress - shower even think 

a família que nos abrigou - cozinha, copa e sala de jantar 
   Kitchen and dining room of our host family 

A vovó ótima cozinheira e sua cozinha 
Grandma cooking in her kitchen

A mesa para nós, eles comem sentados no banquinho ao lado da vovó
We sat at the table, but the family has their meals sitting on small stools next to Grandma

as crianças na paisagem
children in the scenary 

A paisagem
The scenary 

A vida por lá 
What life is like up there 

As casinhas
Small houses made of adobe bricks 

Após nos instalarmos e almoçarmos seguimos ao ponto de encontro, onde iria se iniciar nossa primeira caminha acima de 4000m. Meu primo (grande companheiro de viagem - Daniel) não acreditava em qual era nosso destino, olhava para cima e dizia, mas até são são 2 dias. Bom, saímos do campo de futebol e chegamos ao topo da Ilha em uns 45 minutos. Ao longo do percurso o guia, muito orgulhoso de suas origens nos contou sobre PACHAMAMA Y PACHATATA . Chegamos ao topo de Pachamama em frente estava Pachatata, a primeira com 4150m de altitude a sugunda com 4120m. "Se miran, se gustan, la atracción los humedece, se rozan secretamente con el viento; en la noche se desnudarán ante la más sensual luna llena del verano… Y al amanecer, yacerán radiantes en el lecho del Sol, para ser honrados siempre, cada tercer jueves de enero, desde tiempos preíncas en la isla de Amantani" Se trata de uma união sexual metafórica das montanhas, que representam a mãe Terra e o pai Céu: a fecunda dualidade andina. 

After settling down and having lunch, we headed to the meeting point from where our first trek would begin. When we got there my cousin Daniel - who was by my side throughout this adventure - realized that we were about to hike up one of the island’s two mountain peaks. He stood there, flabbergasted, repeating over and over again, “It will take us two days to get there, ...”

There was a soccer field at the bottom of Pachamama Peak and we actually reached the top of the mountain in 45 minutes. On our way up, the guide, who couldn’t be prouder to be Peruvian, told us all about the Pachamama (Mother Earth) and Pachatata (Father Earth) Peaks, both of which have ancient Inca and Tiwanaku ruins at their top. 

From the top of Pachamama Peak, which is at an altitude of 4.150m above sea level, we could see, right opposite us, the top of Pachatata Peak, 4.120m above sea level. Together they represent the feminine and masculine duality of the Andes. 

o campo de futebol 
Soccer field

O primeiro desafio! Uff!

Our first challenge! Ouch!

encontro de fim de tarde no campo de futebol
Locals meeting late in the afternoon at the soccer field 

Arquibancada do Campo de Futebol -jogo a 4000m de altitude, duro hein?!?

Soccer field bleachers. Can you imagine what it’s like to play soccer at an altitude of 4,000m above sea level?  

Para os menos preparados!!
Physical activity for out-of-shape folks!!! 

Rumo ao topo de Pachamama

Trekking up Pachamama Peak

A vista 
The view from the top of Pachamama Peak 

eu e a vista 
me and the view 

Depois de muitas histórias fomos agraciados com um lindo por do sol.

Após o jantar ainda nos esperava uma festa típica. Nos vestiram com trajes locais e nos puseram a dançar suas músicas. Mas depois de toda a jornada aguentamos pouco e logo fomos dormir.

After listening to so many stories and learning so much, we were blessed with a gorgeous sunset.  

That same evening after dinner we enjoyed a traditional dance performance. We dressed up in traditional clothes and danced to traditional songs. However, after such an exciting and strenuous day, we were so exhausted that we didn’t have it in us to stay up for long, so we went to sleep.  

Jaqueline

Nossa família foi muito simpática, o quarto era bom, o cobertor pesava 20 kilos, mas dormi como um anjo. Banheiro existe, mas sem chuveiro, água quente nem pensar.

A comida era ótima, preparada na cozinha de terra e panelas ao fogo de palha. Batatas desidratadas de 3000 tipos diferentes.

São auto suficientes, comem o que plantam, confeccionam seus próprios tijolos de adobe e suas casas. Todos participam de tudo.

Entramos na vida dos moradores, comemos e dormimos com eles, entendemos um pouco do que é a vida ali, naquela ilha isolada, onde se vive da mesma forma que se vivia ha 50 anos atrás.

Aqui ainda existe o senso de comunidade, em que todos sabem qual é o seu papel e para que serve o seu seu trabalho. Onde a vida que se vive e as realizações do dia a dia ainda fazem sentido.

The home we stayed in didn’t have a shower or hot water in the bathroom, but it was really nice nonetheless. Our bedroom was very comfortable and, although our blankets weighed like 20kg, I slept like an angel. And the food they cooked for us… wow, really delicious… different kinds of potatoes prepared the old fashioned way. Not to mention their warm welcome.

 The residents of Amataní are self-sufficient; they plant their own food and build their own homes, and can always rely on the community for help.

 After entering their homes, spending time with them and  eating their food, we had somewhat of an idea of what it’s like to live on these isolated islands – where people still adopt the same lifestyle as 50 years ago.

Amantaní is a place where there is still a strong sense of community, where each member is aware of their role and importance to the well-being of the community as a whole. It’s a place where life still makes sense.